| ★★★★★ | First IR filter, and I'm hooked! | | Size: 77mm | Verified Purchase | This is a fantastic intro IR filter. I'm brand new to IR photography, so I can't vouch for how well it compares to others on the market (or even a full on conversion!) but I can definitely state that I was able to take it out of the box, place it on my lens, and within 5 minutes I was taking photos like the ones that grabbed my attention and got me interested in infrared photography. While you can only take long-exposure shots with this due to the physical limitations of non-converted cameras, it still results in the lovely ghosty, vintage look that I've been obsessed with lately. Now, there is a fair amount of post-processing required to adjust for the sometimes frustrating exposure results, but I figure it's a fair trade-off for not having to convert one of my camera bodies to permanent IR just to dip my toe into this aspect of digital photography!
As far as the product itself, it came sealed in your average filter box. My only complaint with it was that the filter box had some small broken pieces of plastic rattling around in there which initially worried me, but they were only making contact with the metal ring on the outside and so were not causing problems with the glass or coating. The filter itself feels fairly heavy and seems slightly thicker than my Kaesemann circular polarizing filter. I was most successfully able to focus my Nikon D810 by taking the filter off, autofocusing, then changing it to manual focus and placing the filter back on. Adjusting the aim on it could be accomplished by putting the camera into Live View, but any refocusing I did required that I remove the filter for a moment. I feel like the camera may be able to focus with it on if I find a subject with sufficient contrast (I was using trees in spotty light, so not ideal for testing that.) Hot spots were definitely a thing, but that's a known problem with using a normal lens for IR and is not a fault of the filter. The differences between "straight sunlight" and "cloudy sunlight" (3pm light) were tremendous and required quite of a bit of fiddling with shutter speed!
Attached are two copies of the same photo, which was taken during my first trial of the filter. The first is unedited, looking as it appears straight from the camera, and the second is after fiddling with it in Lightroom. | | | | ★★★★★ | a great IR filter | | Size: 77mm | Verified Purchase | a great IR filter.
not like the other cheap fake filter I purchased before.
I have both Canon 400D that doesn't had Hot Mirror and Canon 7D that had a Hot Mirror to reflect IR light, I'll post a comparison later.
here's the setup I did to take the shot, but before that this is what you must carry with you.
1- DSLR Camera
2- Lens that support 77mm filter size. (consider that you may need Lens Hood for best quality)
3- IR Filter
4- Tripod
5- Wire or Wireless remote
taking the shot:
1- take over exposed shot for the grass with your IR filter. (the healthy grass and faced to the direct sun are recommended)*
2- use the shot to make custom WB after that remove the IR Filter.*
3- attach your Camera to your Tripod.
4- setup the scene for the way you like and make sure you focus.**
5- Turn off the AF.
6- attach your IR filter and take a test shot with low Aperture like from F11 to 22 to see if there a Hot Spot in the middle or not, if yes it's better stick with aperture of F4 or higher.***
7- take your shots.
Note 1: I'm using a costume WB is for reference because it'll be so hard to see image washed with red, and with this way it'll be more accurate to see how shot gonna be.
Note 2: from my side my cameras able to Auto Focus while the filter is attached but it's still better to remove the IR filter for each scene and attach it again.
Note 3: if there's Hot Spot in the middle of the photo I have a bad news for you, you may need to replace your lens, but there's small solution is to use high Aperture (I usually using from F2.8 to F4, if you considering to buy new lens search for recommended lenses for IR photography.
Post Processing.
before you start process the shots first you need to download Adobe DNG Profile Editor, you can find it easily by Google, you may need to do it once for each camera.
First.. Camera Calibration. (Only Once)
1- Open any good IR shot with Adobe Camera RAW.
2- don't do anything with the image other than putting the temperature to 2000.
3- click save button and save the shot as DNG format and close Adobe Camera RAW.
4- Open the Adobe DNG Profile Editor in same shot folder or desktop.
5- click File>>> Open DNG Image... then open your DNG file we saved before
6- click the Color Matrices tap.
7- in White Balance Calibration... but the Temperature to 2000.
6- click File>>>Export YOUR CAMERA NAME Profile.
7- save the profile to C:\Users\USER\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles.
Second.. Post Processing.
1- open any IR shot in Adobe Camera RAW.
2- in the right tools, go to the Camera icon or Camera Calibration.
3- from Camera Profile chose the profile we created before.
4- go to the first tab and now you can choose any number from Temperature or by White Balance tool by hitting I button from keyboard and choose any pixel from image that suitable to your taste.
5- Open the shot by holding Shift then click Open Object for we can modify the image in case when we need.
6- in Photoshop choose Channel Mixer... from the right tools.
7- in Red change the Value to 0 in Red and 100 in Blue.
8- in Blue change the Value to 0 in Blue and 100 in Red.
9- choose Hue/Saturation...
10- change from Master to Cyans.
11- change Saturation to -100
12- change the lightness to 100
13- work with your photo as much as you like.
what give is the basics, for more, google Infrared Photography tutorials and you'll find great learning stuff.
hope I was helpful. | | | | ★★★★★ | First IR digital. Easiest workflow is b/w | | Size: 77mm | Verified Purchase | Last time I did IR it was in the 80's using IR film. I like the digital format because you can at least adjust on the fly. Well mostly. after about 30 seconds for each shot.
I've had good results on a 5dmk4 with iso 100-500 using 30 seconds a f4.0-f6.3. Lots of post processing tips online so I won't bother. The slide in filters might be easier since you have to compose with the filter off then attach it then take the shots. If you move to a different location, repeat. Of course for 30 seconds a tripod is a must. Filter itself is light and easy to manipulate. It feels though as if it will be hard to remove if you attach it tightly so I just attach it loosely.
I got the largest filter diameter I own (77mm) and step downs for the other lenses. Pretty cool filter. I may also try something that lets in a bit more visible light. | | | | ★★★★★ | Works as promised | | Size: 77mm | Verified Purchase | I tried a cheaper off brand infrared filter and couldn't get that signature look (white trees, etc.) because it let in too much visible light. The Hoya worked first shot. Lesson learned.
Basically you do this.
1. Put filter on lens.
2. Take a picture of brightly lit green grass or leaves. My camera took 30s exposure, f2, ISO 100, but it depends on how sensitive your camera is to infrared.
3. Set a custom white balance using that image.
4. View finder is useless because it's so dark, but I could use my LCD to frame and focus my shots. Funny enough, even without the visible light, auto focus still seemed to work okay.
5. Take the shot.
6. If you shoot in RAW, Adobe tools won't work with the RAW. They don't allow such an extreme white balance so make everything red. I used the Canon tools to take the raw and convert to TIFF. JPG out of camera would probably be fine since it bakes the white balance in, but I didn't try it.
7. Take the TIFF into photoshop and use the Channel Mixer to swap the red and blue channels. Then use the curves or levels to adjust to taste. | | | | ★★★★★ | Does its job well | | Size: 52mm | Verified Purchase | This filter blocks nearly all visible light. Consequently, it looks opaque and black to the naked eye, though if you hold it up to a strong light source, you will be able to see a dull, deep red image through it. The R72 is one of the most common filters used in infrared (IR) photography. If you get really serious about shooting in IR, you may want to look into having your camera modified to remove its built-in IR-blocking filter, but even with that filter in place, some cameras can be used for IR photography, given a suitably long exposure. (Incidentally, what we are talking about here is "near-infrared" light, which, although invisible to our eyes, behaves very much like normal light in the way it reflects off objects. This is not the same as seeing heat as light, which involves a deeper portion of the IR spectrum.)
I have used this filter with an unmodified Canon EOS 5D Mark II digital SLR camera and a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 lens (the original version from the 1980s, not the all-plastic one made now, which may or may not take the same size filters). The camera's auto-focus capability works perfectly with the filter in place. In direct sunlight, I have found that with the camera on a tripod, an exposure of about 15 seconds at f/5.6, ISO 400 produces a good image. After that, what to do is a matter of creative judgment; the picture obviously won't be in natural colors (that's the whole point of shooting in IR), so you can adjust white balance however you like. I often exchange the red and blue channels, as well. Sometimes I reduce the end result to grayscale, sometimes not.
Now, one may ask at this point, if we are photographing infrared light, what is all this talk of red and blue and white? The answer is that the camera's sensor, though designed primarily to pick up visible light, is also somewhat sensitive to IR. However, the camera cannot distinguish between IR and visible light. The IR that it senses, it records (incorrectly) as shades of visible light (mostly red). This is what we see in digital IR photography. We are seeing, in colors we can see, an image made from light that we cannot see directly.
IR photography is a lot of fun and at times it provides a strange sense of discovery. It is strange and sometimes thrilling to see our familiar world in such an unfamiliar way. The Hoya R72 filter is a good choice for IR work. | | | | ★★★★★ | Good filter just don't expect to shoot handheld | | Size: 72mm | Verified Purchase | Filter produced beautiful infrared images with great sharpness, good quality construction and costing seems to work fairly well with finger prints and such not sticking either.
Just as an FYI for anyone who hasn't done IR photography, the filter will cut out a lot of light so you will need a tripod. | | | | ★★★★★ | Great IR filter! | | Size: 58mm | Verified Purchase | After reading reviews all across the web, the concensus was that this is the best all-purpose Infrared filter for photography - digital photography in my case. It is also a reasonably priced. I ordered mine and got it quickly, and tried it out right away. The user photos above are ones I took when I did some of my first tests.
On a tripod and with the proper settings, this filter does what it is supposed to and does it well. It darkens the sky and lightens the foliage (Woods effect). It gives images an otherworldy appearance that many find appealing.
I know that I will be using it quite a bit for my nature photography. Thank you Hoya!
EDIT 08/07/2014: I just wanted to clarify that you do not need an infrared modified camera to capture IR photos using this filter. It will work on a standard digicam, though results will vary from camera to camera. Some may exhibit a "hot spot" (brigther central area) and exposure times are long si will require the use of a tripod. If it is windy, some foliage may blur, but that also can be interesting. If you want to capture infrared images of people and other subjects using a more standard exposure time, you will need an IR modified camera. | | | | ★★★★★ | Infrared Shooting ? | | Size: 52mm | Verified Purchase | | I am trying out this filter as I have shot Infrared film quite a few years ago before many people did, and I found it very unusual and different it seem to be of interest to more people now which I find interesting. It gives you a different perspective on the world around you. I can not give an in depth opinion yet but I still find it mysterious. | | | | ★★★★★ | Great infrared filter | | Size: 77mm | Verified Purchase | | I have been wanting to try infrared photography, and I thought for a long time that I would have to convert one of my cameras to so. But with this filter I was able to create images, in no time flat. Just make sure you get focus before you put the filter on, then turn your auto focus off. You are going to need to be in manual exposure. It may take a few tries to get the proper settings, but once you do, the rest is easy. This is a great tool to add one more dimension to your photography portfolio. There are cheaper filters, but I wouldn't save a few bucks on an inferior product. Hoya is a proven brand, that I have always gotten great results with. I used a Canon 5D mark III. You may want to see if this infrared filter will work with your camera | | | | ★★★★★ | Test IR capabilities of camera before purchasing. | | Size: 77mm | Verified Purchase | | Fits my lenses perfectly and blocks all but the near infra red light coming through. However, be sure your camera can capture the light that does come through. There are videos on YouTube to find out if your's does. Mine does...given enough time, aperture, and ISO. So a quick snap of the camera doesn't do the trick. Not the filter's fault. Just my camera. Filter is a bit pricey, but if it worked with my camera I wouldn't have minded. I'll probably resell online and buy a used converted IR camera. | | | | See more reviews |
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| Question: | With my camera on the Automatic setting and using this filter, the picture is a black. Should that happen?. | | Answer: | That's not the way this filter works so, yes that's normal. This filter is the equivalent of about a 10 stop filter. You need to figure out the right exposure time. I won't go into detail about long exposure photography, but you should start by researching that subject. A quick way to start experimenting: (set camera on tripod, you need a tripod)
1) set the camera to M (manual) setting. do not use any auto settings.
2) set the aperture to a full stop like 2.8 or 5.6.
3) manual focus on a subject.
4) place the filter on the lens.
5) start shooting, play around with shutter speeds till you get the correct exposure (the final image will have a red hue to it) . Start off with 1 to 3-second shot. (might need to use bulb setting).
That's the quick and dirty of it.
| | | | Question: | I need a IR/night vision lens to put on my Nikon 3200. Will this lens work or do you have one to suggest. | | Answer: | IR and nightvison are two different things for most people. Which are you asking for? This is an IR (infrared)filter that blocks most of the visible light in order to use IR to make the exposure. So using this filter at night would be tough since in the dark you will lose all autofocusing. You would need an IR source to use it at all and it would need to be fairly strong and/or pretty close to the subject. Depending on the camera, you may or may not get decent false coloring. But no matter what you will need to process the image after shooting it to be either B/W or false color. It will be seriously red. You will give up some clarity so dont be surprised. I have a sample of this lens on a D700 on my G+ page. https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/101688838116518955904/albums/5803489596685783889
| | | | Question: | Anyone having good results using the hoya infrared filter with a canon 70D dslr camera? | | Answer: | Typically, the Canon cameras do NOT see IR very well.... therefore you have to deal with long exposures etc. I bought an Olympus E-P5 and the Olympus sees IR quite well, in fact I can take a shot in less than 2 seconds with it. My camera is NOT converted. Your biggest issue is the lenses.. some of them have hot spots.. which can ruin an image. Check this page for a list of lenses that are good and bad. http://dpanswers.com/content/irphoto_lenses.php. I have had excellent results with this filter on a Nikkor 18-55 F3.5-5.6 lens VR That lens ROCKS and it's CHEAP!
| | | | Question: | How thick is the glass? | | Answer: | no thicker than any other nd filter.
btw=trying to focus with this thing has been a nightmare. If you can rent or borrow one I highly recommend that before purchasing. | | | | Question: | will this fit a panasonic lumix lx100? | | Answer: | I dont believe it fits. This is a 72mm and is for a large lens.The lens filter thread for the lx100 should be 43mm but not sure. | | | | Question: | Is it compatible with film camera | | Answer: | Yes | | | | Question: | A staff member at a specialty camera shop said that infrared photography can damage your camera, will this filter cause damage? | | Answer: | Absolute baloney.
First, the filter does not add anything. It is a cutoff filter that passes light from about 720nm and up. The nature of these things is that it inevitably absorbs a bit of infrared, so your camera receives a bit less infrared light than it would have without the filter. (Of course, this isn't true in practice, because you lengthen exposure time when filtered.)
Second, you record infrared with every shot, with or without the filter. Your camera's sensor is sensitive to IR light, so the maker installed a filter over the sensor to block most IR. When you hear of a camera that has been converted to IR, it just means someone went in and removed that sensor filter. (A delicate operation.) But converted cameras suffer no sensor damage for lacking the filter.
So the filter can't hurt anything, and the sensor is constructed to see infrared but filtered to block most of it. That, of course, means that you must use very long exposure times with this filter in place, because you're fighting the presence of that built in IR-blocking filter. With the internal filter removed, the same shots can be made a hand-held speeds. Some older digital cameras are known to have inadequate built-in filters, meaning more IR reaches the sensor. So these cameras are still in demand by those who want to do IR work. Nikon D70 and Pentax K100D are probably best known.
| | | | Question: | Can this filter be used on digital cameras or must you use a film camera? | | Answer: | I used it on my Nikon D7000 digital camera with no issues. | | | | Question: | If you hold the filter to your eye, can you see anything through it? Or, does it block 100% of all visible light? | | Answer: | Hello. Hoya's description for the R-72 series of filters (which is more complete than what Amazon shows on their page) is as follows:
The Hoya R72 Infrared filter is specifically designed for infrared photography with digital cameras and infrared film. Infrared light starts in the high-red area of the visible spectrum at around 750nm and goes up beyond 1000nm. This light is not visible to the naked eye. Looking through the R72 filter it looks almost opaque because the filter is only passing light from the very high red edge of the visible spectrum and infrared light. Infrared photography yields very interesting, sometimes stunning, and creative result as object in a scene reflect infrared light differently than normal light.
Due to the nature of infrared light, filter factor and exposure compensation vary widely from visible light and depends largely on lighting conditions.
-Works well with digital cameras, especially mirrorless cameras or DSLRS with no IR blocking filter in front of the sensor. (Please check your camera's owners manual)
-Only passes light at 720nm (high-red) and above. Gives more predictable results than filter that only pass Infrared light above 850 or 900nm.
-The Hoya R72 is constructed using high-quality optical glass from Hoya mounted in a precision milled aluminum frame that provides rigidity.
-Consistent quality, made in Japan
-Can be paired with colored black and white contrast filters such as the R25 (red), K2 (yellow), O (orange) or other color filters to change the color rendition or contrast effects.
Please let us know if you have any additional questions.
Deven Morgan
Event Cameras
| | | | Question: | Will the filter fit the Nikon D 5000? | | Answer: | If you have the 18-140mm Lens. 67mm would be the correct size filter. | | | | See more questions |
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