| ★★★★★ | Exact Replacement, Easy no-brainer job, Fantastic delivery WHILE TRAVELLING using the Amazon Locker system! |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
| While on an extended travel itenerary our converter failed. We called the next large town's big RV shop and asked if they could provide this part and they said it'd take 2 weeks to get the part. I logged onto Amazon, found this exact replacement part and ordered it...selecting an Amazon "locker" at a Whole Foods Grocery in Colorado Sprgs where we were next headed. This was on Friday evening after dark...and the part was delivered before 2PM on Monday. We bought groceries, picked up the part from the excellent "locker" by simply entering the "code" Amazon had emailed to our smart phone...a magic door opened...and here was our part! Connected the wires exactly like the ones we'd removed from the failed unit's connections...and VOILA! PERFECT REPLACEMENT and a great solution to a complicated issue WHILE TRAVELLING! The unit is an exact replacement (although a minor difference in appearance/design...the new unit has a better cooling-fan shield than the failed unit. This should extend it's service life. IMO) Thank you, Amazon.... and thank you Alterra! (who I was afraid was an aftermarket seller...in fact, it's a genuine WFCO replacement part.) |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Not plug and play replacement for 7300 series, this is the main board assembly only. |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
| Read this if you have a 7300...The parallax website shows this is a replacement for any 7300 series converter. There are many reviews saying it is a ten minute job. Not if you have a 7300 and buy ONLY this motherboard assembly. If you want to save time, buy the complete assembly with the casing around the converter. It costs about $40 more. This one will require some work to get it to fit in the box that held the 7300 converter. If you are replacing a 7300 with ONLY this main board assembly, here's some things you need to know: You will need a drill to remove pop rivets on top of the case once you remove it from the power center. You will need to drill out one of the old mounting shafts for the screws that hold the 7300 in place. the WFCO fits in between the rest that are there. You will need to drill new mounting holes in the case once the broken 7300 is out. You will need pop rivets and a rivet gun to mount the new converter. You will need to drill a roughly half inch hole in the top of the case to run the wires up to the fuse box panel. You will need extra of the positive (big red one) and thin green ground wires. They are not long enough to get to their destinations. Once you pop rivet the wfco converter into the case, you will pop rivet the top back on. It will have the new hole to route the three small wires up through since you just drilled it while the top was off the case. The positive wire is long enough to connect to the batt negative terminal. You will have extra of the big red wire to make it long enough to get to where it hooks up on the fuse block. Now for the technical parts of it: The wiring is pretty straight forward. It does not come with instructions but if you just duplicate what was in there with the old 7300 you'll be good to go. At that point it's just screwing the old case back into the power center and putting the front on. There is a nice test/troubleshooting diagram for the 7300 series converter online that also works to test the new unit. If you are unsure what is up with your 7300 find the guide and follow it. It is very helpful in diagnosing if your 7300 converter is shot. The new one does indeed fit well in the 7300 box and functionally it is superior to the 7300. If I had it to do over again, I would have spent the extra $40 and bypassed all the work necessary to make this unit fit and work. |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Exact replacement |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
| Exact replica of the original equipment. Not sure why the original failed and I hope this one lasts longer than the original. I'm not a electrician and I was a bit intimidated when the original did fail, and not sure how to diagnose the problem I felt it was cheaper to throw money at this problem rather than go to a RV repair facility which probably would have milked me for three times the cost of this unit. Easy install only five wires, so pay attention to how you remove and it would be easy to replace. I highly recommend a surge protector because a lot of RV parks are deteriorating and I suspect this unit blew up because of a older RV Park didn't properly maintain their electrical boxes. I can't prove it but I suspect it. |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Bolted right in |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
I recentlly purchased a 2008 'Rampage' toy hauler, with a generator that didn't seem to charge the battery. Upon inspection, the old converter had a fried control board and needed to be replaced. This is a direct replacement for the control unit that came in my trailer, with only minor differences in overall design that did not impact the fitment.
It took me about 20 minutes to remove the old unit and bolt this one in. Some minor wiring for the power and return feed into the main breaker was the only issue I ran into, but there was enough wire to get everything plugged in and tucked out of the way nicely. In the end, the process was about as simple as it gets when it comes to working on an RV, and I've been using it for 6 months plus without an issue. I was quoted several hundred dollars plus install fees from a local RV place, but shown this exact same board, so save yourself the time and money and just do it yourself. |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Upgraded and it works awesome!! |
| Style: 45 Amp | Verified Purchase |
Used in a tent trailer that was unable to charge battery. We went from 35 amp to 45 amp and it has more power for the various 12 volt equipment on board. At first I thought it wasn't working and was going to return because the fan didn't run and it still didn't charge the house battery. Rechecked the fuses and found the 30 amp reverse polarity fuse was blown. Upgrading also required two 30 amp fuses and we only had 1 installed. It works great, charges the house battery and allows us to run 12 volt without a battery which we never were able to run.
Five wires is all it takes to install. We did have a slight problem with screw alignment because the upgraded unit has the fan on the opposite side and the fan is attached to a plastic platform. Problem solved quickly with plenty of room. Everything we read said increasing from 35 to 45 amp is recommended due to less stress on the system. The fan barely runs and the unit stays cool. Great price and came quicker than anticipated. |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Perfect replacement part |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
| If you're replacing your original WF-8955, this one will do the job perfectly...BUT, you have to install it backwards. The fan will be on the right hand side, whereas the original one had the fan on the left hand side. Other than that, it's a direct wire-up, direct-fit replacement main board. It has solved all of our 12V issues in our 2006 Keystone Sprinter travel trailer. |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Easy remove/install, saved $100 thru Amazon |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
| We had an issue in our trailer with the Power supply fan running constantly. I removed it (it was surprisingly easy) and took it to a local dealer, they wanted $250 for the 55amp and told me it was the factory replacement. I recalled seeing a similar unit on Amazon, so I told them “no” and went back to the web. I ordered the Arterra 8955-MBA. When it arrived it was the exact same box and P.S. that I had been shown at the dealer. I paid $147 via Amazon! I installed it in our ‘09 FunFinder which took less than 10 minutes. We now have peace and quiet😀 |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Exact replacement to factory unit. |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
| This unit was pretty much an exact replacement to the type that I had in my camper. I had two small concerns when I ordered this item: the first was the fan appeared to be on the opposite side from what my original unit was; the second is the extra surface area in front where the screw mounts go that appear in the picture to be in the front make the heat sink look like it was going to be in the back. I'm not sure if the image was mirrored, or what, but the unit arrived and the heat sink is on the front, just above the extra protruding base surface that is used to screw the unit into the base, which then put the fan on the side as my factory unit was. The only difference in this unit is the extra surface plate held in with two screws to the heat sink. My original didn't have this, but it could've been removed by previous owner as it had two holes for it to have one. Installation was simple as it was a wire for wire exact match, out with the old and in with the new in 15 minutes. The fan on my previous unit quit working and also wasn't charging my battery like it should've been. Very happy with product fulfillment and quick delivery! |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Fit right in |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
| My lights started flickering and sure enough it was the power converter. I found the wattage and found the replacement on Amazon. The cooling fan location on the new one was moved to the other end of the unit. Pretty easy to change out. I did have a problem with the two 12 volt wires. The two wires on the old one would not unscrew due to the factory using Loctite on the threads. I had to cut splice the old wires to the new wires. I went to Lowes and bought a heavy duty screw type butt connector. Covered it with Shrink Wrap and all is will after 5 months. |
| |
| ★★★★★ | Direct Replacement |
| Style: 55 Amp | Verified Purchase |
| Direct replacement, manufacturer suggested if purchasing this unit to purchase from RV dealer, which I did through AMAZON, due to high levels of returns to manufacturer from AMAZON. Purchased from Rex & Sons RV out of NC via AMAZON, direct ship from Keystone Warehouse in Atlanta, GA.. Installed in customer’s RV, tested good & a happy customer. |
| |
| See more reviews |
Comments
Post a Comment